India: My Favorite Small Heritage Properties

– Nicole Beattie

So much has changed in the last 33 years of 'going home' to India, that I sometimes wonder if my memory has it right! Today's India has so many palace hotels, heritage hotels, and modern business hotels to choose from, that a traveler has a myriad of options for where they will stay.

On my first visit to India in 1977 it was a destination filled with apprehension and amazement all wrapped up in pomp and circumstance! Visiting India in those heady days I stayed at the Rashtrapati Bhavan in Delhi, residence of the President of India — a privilege few Americans have been fortunate enough to experience. In those early years whenever my husband and I traveled around India, we either stayed in government guesthouses or a raj bhavan, residence of a governor of the state.

Whenever I visit India these days I am constantly finding new and unique off-the-beaten-track heritage properties to experience. Of particular interest are those small heritage resorts, scattered throughout, offering travelers a taste of long ago. From simple to grand and dazzling, all exemplify a touch of history and romance that is often forgotten in these fast-paced days.

Here are a few of my favorites:

Deogarh Mahal Palace

As soon as you glimpse the Deogarh Mahal, you can see that its rulers must have been serious players in the Mewar aristocracy, their magnificent fort a fitting stronghold for one of its sixteen 'umraos' — the most senior feudal barons attending on the Maharana of Udaipur. You might not necessarily guess that the Rawats of Deogarh (a local title equivalent to 'Raja') once ruled over the fourth largest jagir in the whole of Rajasthan. 

This treasure-filled heritage property is located in the hills of Rajasthan between Jodhpur and Udaipur. The hotel in total has 60 rooms, among which three are Royal Suites; two have been allotted for Regal Suites, 21 Deluxe Suites and 34 Deluxe Rooms. Each of the rooms give the guest a true feeling of being part of royal family. The rooms are brilliantly and extravagantly decorated. 

Guests staying at Deogarh have the option of visiting Kumbalgarh Fort, and the famous Jain temple complex at Ranakhpur. Deogarh is also an ideal spot from which to enjoy hikes and treks in the surrounding hills, passing through the Bhil villages scattered throughout this area.  

Chhatra Sagar

In the late 19th C, Thakur Chhatra Singh of Nimaj, a powerful noble of the desert kingdom of Marwar (Jodhpur), decided to dam a seasonal stream flowing through his estate. His vision was to create a water reservoir which would harvest the monsoon rains. It was an ambitious project and a great drain on his resources but Thakur Chhatra Singh remained true to his vision. 

The dam was completed in 1890 and changed the dry scrub into prime agricultural land. Farmers struggling for sustenance on parched lands were invited by Thakur Chhatra Singh to settle around the reservoir. The reservoir was named Chhatra Sagar in his memory. With its wide-open spaces and enchanting views, it became the entertainment venue of choice. Sporting parties with high tea and lavish dinners became a regular feature. 

The Camp Chhatra Sagar of old has recently been recreated by the great grandchildren of Thakur Chhatra Singh. This charming resort has 11 guest tents located overlooking the dam and two up further on a hill. All tents face east overlooking the lake and have private sit outs offering panoramic views. Each tent is hand stitched, with interiors block printed in traditional floral motifs. They are spacious, comfortably furnished with locally crafted furniture, and have well-appointed private facilities. 

Guests may enjoy various activities including visiting the nearby village and temples. Pristine wetlands, scrub forests, grasslands, and farms have made Chhatra Sagar a haven for over 200 species of birds.

Ramathra Fort

What distinguishes Ramathra Fort from many other heritage homes is its remoteness from the urbane and its closeness to nature. The property lies between two of India’s internationally famous wildlife reserves, Keoladeo Ghana Bird Sanctuary in Bharatpur and Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve in Sawai Madhopur. 

Today, the Fort belongs to Thakur Brijendra Raj Pal and his family who are descendants of the founder. With a commanding view of the countryside, one can sit on the top of the fort’s massive outer wall and look out over farmland, rugged scrub of the Daang plateau, Kalisil Lake and its irrigation canal. Sunrises are especially spectacular and at twilight one can watch herds returning from the jungle or the blue bull grazing in the forest scrub below.

Inside, there is a multi-story palace, parts of which are being restored using traditional building techniques and local craftspeople. Stone lattices and a painted ceiling ornament the otherwise simple facilities. The palace has six suites and six luxury tented accommodations, most with private terraces or porches. Amenities include en suite bathrooms with hot water.

Jeep safaris take you across the Daang through its badlands to several spectacular places that are best explored on foot. One shouldn't miss a walking tour of the Ramathra village, a small hamlet of farmers and herders.

Shahpura Bagh

Staying here, with the descendants of original owner Rajadhiraj Nahar Singh, is just like staying with friends — but how many friends have a colonial 19th C Indian mansion in a surprisingly verdant area of Rajasthan? The oasis is a result of the three lakes that border the estate, built by Rajadhiraj Nahar Singh to provide water for the local people. 

Inside, 10 rooms and suites are spacious and minimally decorated, with subtle touches giving a sense of India. At dinner, you'll eat traditional Rajasthani and continental dishes from the chef who has cooked for three generations of the family. Usually dinner is served under the stars, but on colder nights, you can eat in the cozy dining room. Out and about, there's plenty to keep you occupied: spend a day exploring, bird watching or boating on one of the lakes, or enjoy massages and yoga at the house. 

The region is full of ancient forts, temples and villages, and the estate has a working farm, so you can really soak up the culture. It's so peaceful, a true break from modern life. The family has a long history of philanthropy; since Rajadhiraj Nahar Singh built his lakes they have been contributing to the local community, so you can be sure that your visit only impacts in a positive way. Many green imperatives exist at the hotel, from solar panels to re-use of waste materials.

Singinawa

Singinawa is a Sherpa word meaning 'Protectors of the Sacred Forest' and is the philosophy guiding owners Nanda and Latika Rana. Located on 55 acres of restored lands, and once again attracts great numbers of wildlife, Singinawa Jungle Lodge offers a chance to experience the jungles of central India and also enjoy the comforts and hospitality of a world-class lodge.

The lodge offers the chance to not only learn about the Bengal tiger and its habitat from recognized experts but to also experience ecologically responsible lodge operations and gain insight into conservation at work that aims to benefit local communities and the Kanha Tiger Reserve.

There are 12 charming, comfortable stone and slate cottages with a large bedroom, verandah, large en-suite bathrooms, fireplaces, air conditioning and mini bar. Singinawa is easily reached with a flight to Nagpjur and then an approximate 4-hour drive to the Resort.

Forsyth Lodge

Named for the British officer who set up the forest department in central India and wrote a classic account of these highlands, Forsyth’s Satpura is a small stylish 12-cottage wildlife lodge set in 44 acres of wildlife filled jungle at the edge of the Satpura Tiger Reserve.  

Built primarily in mud and inspired by local village design and materials, the Lodge recycles all wastewater, harvests rainwater and attempts to tread as lightly on the earth as possible. The focus of the Lodge is entirely on the wildlife and the wilderness experience, but always viewed in the context of the local community and its needs. 

During a stay at Forsyth enjoy exciting and comprehensive wildlife programs guided and lead by expert local villagers. Reaching the Lodge is via a flight to Bhopal, then an approximate 3-hour drive to the Lodge.

Udai Bilas Palace

Nestled in idyllic splendor, with the blue waters of Gaibsagar lake on one side and a cove of private reserve forest on the other, Udai Bilas Palace is the embodiment of the old world charm of princely India. Exquisite Rajput architecture, fine murals, miniature paintings and stone carvings will delight the cultured traveler.

The history of the Palace dates from the mid-19th century, when Maharawal Udai Singhji-II, a great patron of art and architecture, built a wing of bluish grey local stone 'Pareva' overlooking the lake and the 'Ek Thambia Mahal,' featuring intricate sculptured pillars and panels, ornate balconies, balustrades, bracketed windows, arches and frieze of marble carvings.

Udai Bilas Palace has 23 beautiful rooms, with six Standard, 11 Deluxe Suites, two Grand Suites, three art Deco Suites and one Maharawal Suite. 

Besides visits to the many unspoiled Bheel hamlets in and around the town, you can look forward to special shows of tribal music and dancing at the palace itself. Bheels from this region and from the neighboring states of Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat can be seen at their best during the annual tribal fair at Baneshwar temple.

Excursions can also be arranged to several ancient temples nearby. The Palace is 75 miles from the Udaipur airport.

Shreyas Retreat

The resort is dedicated to helping guests achieve a perfect balance in body, mind and spirit, through the medium of Yoga which is non-denominational and open to people of all faiths. At Shreyas, you get a unique insight into Yoga, irrespective of whether you are a beginner or have practiced for many years. 

The overall emphasis is to live an ashram lifestyle in serene and simple, yet luxurious accommodation and facilities. Guests may practice different facets of Yoga — for physical strength, balance and flexibility, for physiological and therapeutic benefits. The Spa at Shreyas is simple, and yet recognized as one of best in India provides guests with rejuvenation massage therapies drawn from diverse cultures such as India, Indonesia and Thailand.

You can also interact with the village community, participating in local activities to truly get an insight into their daily lives. Try farming in the Retreat's organic agricultural garden, or join chefs to help cook and serve food to village school children.   

Shreyas is an environmentally friendly retreat and retains the original landscape and natural beauty of the place. Every effort has been made to preserve the precious natural resources with initiatives such as rainwater harvesting, solar heating, herb plantations, organic farming and waste recycling. All meals served at Shreyas are made from organically grown ingredients freshly hand-picked from its 20 acres of fields. Shreyas is approximately 1 hour’s drive from Bangalore’s International Airport. 

Neeleshwar Hermitage

This palace combines the tranquil and rejuvenating simplicity of a retreat with the comfort and elegance of a first-class hotel. In ancient India, spending time in a beautiful forest retreat was considered an indispensable part of a balanced life. Adapting this tradition for our increasingly noisy and hectic world, the Hermitage has been created to be a place that nourishes the spirit and fosters a sense of creative tranquility. They have taken great care at this property to create aesthetically pleasing buildings, while the natural beauty of the surroundings is carefully protected by eco-friendly policies.

A stay at Neeleshwar is supported by authentic and delicious food, smoothed by the natural charm of the staff and enhanced by the lifestyle arts for which Kerala is renowned — massage, meditation and yoga. The resort consists of 12 cottages that are constructed in the local vernacular of laterite and thatch, with carved and dressed woodwork lovingly fashioned in traditional style by local craftsmen. These craftsmen have also produced the handmade furniture, and each room is decorated with both traditional and contemporary objets d’art. The result is an uplifting sense of elegance and dignity. Neeleshwar is easily reached by flight to Mangalore, with a 2-hour drive to the resort.

– Nicole Beattie

1-800-999-1758

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Comments

[costamesa chiropractor]

I am constantly finding new and unique off-the-beaten-track heritage properties to experience

[Keoladeo Ghana national park Bharatpur]

India indeed provides wonderful tourism. People are welcoming. One can see some of the best places on earth and I'm sure one would love to visit this country of diversity twice.

[holyland tours]

I Love to travel India, been there for three times, were tracking and also stayed in resorts, it's a wonderful country with amazing views.

[Ajf 6]

Friendship is pure and holy, like love, it is a kind of "I'm able to you, there are you in me" mutual emotional.

[India Weekend Getaways]

Wow! Great post, very informative. India is indeed a great place. There are many destinations and spots that are worth the time and effort to visit. Awesome place!

[Property in Turkey]

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